Taking Pictures of Scale Models By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectibles With the right techniques, pictures of even the smallest models can come out clear and bright.  The 1/64 scale Caterpillar 2-Ton photographed here measures less than an inch and a half long. Everyone likes to show off their hard work on a new custom project or the latest addition to their collection.  Unfortunately, relatively few people will ever see most of our collections in person.  The next best thing to showing off your model, is showing off pictures of your model.  Many people, however, have a hard time getting pictures of their models to turn out.  They often end up out of focus or too dark and it can take several shots just to get a good one.  I also used to have similar problems, but after alot of practice and a little experimentation, I have learned several techniques that can help you take good pictures almost every time. The first thing you need to take pictures is, of course, a camera.  An expensive, fancy camera is not necessary, but here are a few features that can be helpful: Auto Focus / Macro Zoom – Most cameras feature some kind of auto focus feature that can make it virtually impossible to take a blurry shot of any large, still object.  Small objects, like model tractors, are usually photographed at close range however, and often come out blurry.  This problem can usually be fixed by using the macro zoom feature that is found on many cameras.   The macro feature, often denoted with a flower ( ) icon, will help you zoom in on small objects near to the camera and keep them in focus.  Flash On/Off – The flash, much like the auto focus, is not designed with up-close photography in mind.  Using a flash when taking photos of your models can often produce unwanted glares and shadows.  Because of this, I take most of my pictures with the flash turned off and use other light sources, which I will go into later in the article. Zoom – Often pictures will turn out better if you position the camera farther away from the model and zoom in, rather than position the camera right in front of the model. Photo with the camera close to the model gives a distorted appearance Photo with model farther away from the camera, but camera zoomed in, gives a more normal appearance. A digital camera is also preferable over film cameras in most instances because you can quickly check your photo quality and delete the ones that don't turn out, and it is easier to post them to the web.  High resolution is not necessary in most cases.  My camera is capable of just over 3 megapixels, but I usually reduce the quality of the images I post on the web to save server space and improve download speed.  Since the digital camera market changes so quickly, if you looking for one I recommend checking with PCWorld.com or cnet.com for their reviews on the latest offerings.  Another thing that I have found invaluable in photographing my models is a tripod.  Again, something expensive isn't necessary, so long as it will support your camera.  By holding your camera steady, it will greatly improve the clarity of your photos, especially if you are taking pictures of small objects (like model tractors) at close range.  Lighting Another key element to getting your model photos to turn out right is adequate lighting.  As I said before, using your camera's flash may not get you the results you desire, so I recommend using other light sources.  One of the simplest and cheapest sources of light is sunlight.  This method works especially well on larger scale models or farm displays and will give you a very natural look.  As with any outdoor photograph, you will get your best results with the sun to your back.  To reduce shadow contrast, take your photos when the sun is less intense, such as the early morning or evening hours, or when it is slightly overcast.  Also be careful that your shadow doesn't block light to your model.  For many of us however, when we need or have time to take pictures doesn't always correspond with the right time of day, or weather conditions for outdoor photography.  In this case, it is necessary to have a way to light your photo subjects artificially.  A well lit desk or table can serve as a good temporary “photo studio”.  If you are like me and don't have a spot like that available, a pair of desk lamps and a card table will work just as well, if not better.  Of the lamps that I have tried, I prefer the kind with the light mounted at the end of a flexible neck.  These allow you to position the light almost anywhere you like.  I have gotten my best results with one positioned in front of my models to illuminate the side facing the camera, and the other up and above the model to light up the top and reduce shadows behind.   To enhance the lighting provided by the lamps, I made a folding white background out of foam-core board that reflects light onto the photo subject. Backgrounds Another key element to getting good photos is the setting you take them in.  The type of setting that best suits your photo depends on what kind of picture you are trying to take.  If you are just trying to show features or details of your model, then “model shots” might be the best type of pictures to take.  These are generally done with a solid colors in the background and with only the model in the frame.  For solid backgrounds I like to use posterboard.  I usually set up gray, tan or brown posterboard underneath the model and either white or light blue poster board behind the model.   These plain backgrounds give a nice, clean featureless backdrop that won't take the attention away from your model.  Which color backdrop is best for the photo depends on the color of your model and the lighting.   The first few times you try it, experiment and see which gives you the best results. Some cameras will adjust the exposure based on the amount of light.  The color of your background can have a big effect the total amount of light, as you can see in these examples.  All were taken with the same lighting and camera settings.  The backgrounds from left to right are white, light gray, brown and black.   If you are trying to show the realism or accuracy of your model, you might want to take “action shots” of it in a more realistic setting.  Farm layouts make for the most realistic photos of tractors and implements.  Several previous TTT issues have featured articles on how to build a good display.  For those that don't have the skills or resources to make a nice farm display, there are still a few easy things you can do to add realism to your photographs.  For pictures of field work, I purchased a yard of thick, brown upholstery type fabric from the craft section at Wal-Mart. The fabric's texture gives the appearance of furrows in a tilled field.  I also purchased some green burlap that resembles grass.  I chose this over model railroad grass because the burlap can easily be folded for storage and it doesn't have grains of grass that have a tendency to rub off.  The other photo prop I have is a two-lane, blacktop road made of posterboard.  This is useful when photographing cars or trucks, or tractors and implements going to or from the field.  All three of these props can quickly be added or removed to give me the photo setting I am wanting.  In addition to the terrain and background, a few other props can help add realism to your picture.  Look for other pieces in your collection that might compliment your photo subject, like a truck or tractor and cart to go with a combine, or implements to go with a tractor.  If the model is scratch built or unfamiliar to most collectors, adding a complimentary piece also helps give the person looking a the picture a sense of scale.  "Action Shots" are easy to create with the right assortment of models and props. Other Photo Tricks There are a couple of other more advanced photo techniques I have done that are worth mentioning.  After you get the others mastered, you might give these a try.  The first is the “floating” object picture.  I used this on the front page of my website.  This type of photo makes the model appear as if it is floating in mid-air on a white background.  This can be accomplished with the right combination of lighting, background and photo editing.  Place your model on a completely white background.  If using a piece of posterboard or sheet of paper, bend but don't crease it so that it is both underneath and behind your model.  This will give you a nice, seamless background.  If displaying multiple pieces at different levels, blocks or sheets of styrofoam can also be used.  Position the lights so that the shadows are minimized on the background in your picture.  Take your picture and pull it up in photo editing software.  If necessary, using photo adjust the brightness and contrast until the background “disappears” or at least mostly disappears.  Any other remaining dark areas that you don't want can be edited out.  Setting up for photo Unedited photo Photo with shadows edited out Photo of 1/16 Massey Harris Puller with real corn field in background Another trick is to photograph your model outdoors with a real background.  To do this, place your model on a natural looking surface that does not give away the scale.  Loose soil, sand, smooth asphalt, or concrete work well.  Position your model close to and at the same level as your camera, with the desired background in the distance.  This will create an optical illusion that makes your model appear to be life size relative to the objects in the background.  It may take a few shots to get the angle, positioning and focus just right, but once you do, it will create a great looking picture.  Like anything else, mastering the techniques in this article will require a little practice and patience.  However, once you do get the hang of them, they should help you take better pictures and help you show off your favorite model or the newest pieces in your collection. Get Your Custom Projects in TTT Now that you know how to take good photos of your custom projects, it's time to show them off.  Between now and December 1, 2003, I will be accepting photos of your custom projects that incorporate, in one way or another, the tips I have featured in my articles.  I will pick a select number of them to be featured in my December column in the year end "Best of 2003" Issue.  Please email your pictures to dtallon@talloncc.com or mail them to Dave Tallon, 525 Greystone, Washington, IL 61571.  Sorry, mailed photos can not be returned.

TTT September 2003 Page 5

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