"Getting Red-dy to Paint that IH"

By Michael G. Henry

A lot of people have asked me how I prepare my tractors, whether they are 1/16, Pedals, or the real thing, for painting.  I guess a lot of my descent paint jobs have been good luck.  Probably the most important thing that I have learned is to be patient.  Some people want to get into a rush and really apply the paint, which results in runs.  I am a firm believer that it takes 2 light coats before apply a 3rd, even 4th, heavy coat.

However, before even thinking about painting, you have to prepare to paint.  One of the first thing that I do is glass bead or sandblast my parts.  Glass beads leave a nice, smooth finish, but a small cabinet prohibits beading larger parts.  Sandblasters are usually portable and can be used outside on the driveway.

As you can see from the 1066 IH Pedal picture, this glass beading takes most, if not all, of the old IH red out.  If you have parts that still have paint on them, I would recommend using a course 120 sandpaper.  After you do this, use nice smooth 320 sandpaper over the metal.

If you have a piece of metal that is painted and not too bad of shape, but needs a fresh coat of paint, I recommend "wet" sanding it.  By wet sanding you take water-ready sandpaper and use a rag to wet the piece of metal.  Run the wet sandpaper over the metal (rubber sandpaper holders can be bought which nicely fits in your hand).  Wet sanding prevents bumps on the sand paper.  The bumps leave grooves in your old paint and will show once you apply fresh paint.

Once you have glass beaded, sandblasted, or sanded your piece of metal, it MUST be cleaned off.  I recommend PPC's Pre-Clean PC-90 (see picture).  It is 100% Virgin Solvent.  It will get all oils and greasy film off the metal.  If you don't use a Pre-Cleaner, you will be in jeopardy of getting "fish-eyes" in your paint due to oils on the metal.

After the metal is cleaned, I use CaseIH's Iron/Gard Gray Primer, stock #B91254.  This has a built in self-etching primer in case of any bare metal spots.  Do not use cheap primer from your local store because most likely it won't be self-etching and not get into the pits of your castings if you are painting 1/16's or pedals.  One coat usually does the trick.

Finally, you are ready for your CaseIH paint.  CaseIH sells "ready to go" spray cans of paint.  You can grab a can and just start painting.  However, the cheaper way, in the long run, is by using an air spray gun.  If you have the capability of using an air gun, do it because it will save you money.  If you use an air gun, remember that the paint will need to be thinned using CaseIH's Iron/Gard Thinner Stock #B17692 (see picture).

Here is something to remember about buying CaseIH paint as well; there are many different colors of paint that CaseIH sells.  I know that I have used IH Power White when I should have used the IH 935 white instead.  There is also an "old" IH red (Rouge 2150 Red) and a newer CaseIH red.  Be sure to ask your local CaseIH dealer what series (56, 66, 86, etc.) uses what color of paint.

Also, some people have asked if it is worth buying off-brand paint and if it matches.  Well, it depends...I buy off brand paint if I am painting somewhere that it can't be seen.  For example, the inside of a pedal tractor, the inside of a 1/16th, or the inside of tin.  Off-brand paint usually does not match CaseIH red. For about $1 more, you can get CaseIH red.

TTT July 2003 Page 7

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