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Custom Grain Trucks By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectibles
One essential part of any harvest operation is a way to get the grain in
from the field. There are a multitude of 1/64 grain carts and
wagons and even a few semi’s out there, but collectors’ choices of
modern grain hauling straight trucks are much more limited. Ertl
has produced trucks in the past with Ford F-650 and International cabs,
but is not currently making either of them. Several custom
builders offer trucks with various cabs and high levels of detail, but
these are out of the price range of many collectors. For those
looking for a nice modern truck at a reasonable price, the only
remaining option is to build it themselves. As I will explain in
this article, this is not as difficult as it might first sound. The first step in building your truck is finding a truck to base it on. Ertl or Racing Champions semi tractors are good candidates because they are fairly common and usually reasonably priced. However, since most grain trucks have simple “day-cabs” and most semis you find have sleepers or air dams, you will probably want to cut the sleepers or air dams off. If you don’t want the hassle of modifying the cab, SpecCast makes a nice Peterbilt 385 box/tow truck, or try DG Productions’ International bucket trucks. Both of these trucks are usually more expensive than RC/Ertl trucks, but lend themselves well to a grain truck conversion because they are offered in a day-cab configuration.
For this article, I am using a Racing Champions Kenworth T600 tractor as
an example. I prefer to use Racing Champions NASCAR transporters
because you frequently can find the previous year’s models on
clearance. You can cut the sleeper off by cutting around where the
sleeper meets the cab. Depending on the look you are going for,
you may want to leave all or part of the fuel tank skirts. Clean
up any rough edges. Cut a thin piece of metal to cover the rear of
the cab. Glue it in place and blend it into the rest of the cab
with some body filler. Sand the body filler smooth. With the cab
now modified, you will likely also need to modify the interior and cab
glass. You can carefully cut the sleeper portions off of both and
trim them to fit. With the cab out of the way, you need to turn your attention to the grain hauling portion of the truck. You have several options here. If you are feeling really ambitious, or need a specific size box, you can make your own. Basswood and/or corrugated styrene, both available at most hobby stores, are good materials for this. The box off of an Ertl gooseneck grain trailer also works well, and comes with a plastic simulated tarp lid and opening end gate. The Ertl box also has a lift cylinder, which can come in handy if you are wanting to make the box tilt.
Another option you can try, and the one I am using in this example, is
the box off of a Tonka Farm grain truck. Although not as detailed
or strong as the metal Ertl box, the plastic Tonka box is less
expensive, offers a fair amount of detail and is, at least in my area,
more readily available. This box does, however, require a few
modifications. Some non-acetone nail polish remover can remove
most of the graphics printed on the sides of the box. You will
likely still have to paint the box to get rid of them entirely, but
taking most of them off with nail polish remover prevents them from
being visible through the paint. Since this is sold as a feed
truck, the box cover has an auger on it. This can be easily
removed by drilling out the rivet. Once you get the box off of the
truck, you will notice there are holes in the box floor. Cut a
piece of plastic, metal or wood to the shape of the box floor to cover
the holes. Depending on where you plan on putting your rear axle(s),
you may want to cut off the molded-on mud flaps.
Before final assembly,
it is a good idea to paint your components separately. Even if you
plan on painting them all the same color, painting them separately helps
you get even, complete coverage. Once the paint has dried,
assemble the glass and interior into your cab, and then assemble the cab
and bed to the frame. You will also want to add your wheels and
tires. Since most trucks you use for this project will already
have adequate wheels and tires, you shouldn’t have to buy new ones.
If you do, however, RC/Ertl trucks are a good source, and you can also
buy them separate through most toy parts dealers. Since many farm
trucks have painted steel wheels, rather than the chrome ones that come
with most semi models, you might want to paint your wheels as an added
detail. Now is also a good time to add paint or decals for your
lights and trim, and any other details such as mirrors, fuel tanks,
mudflaps or antennas. For mudflaps, I typically use strips of
black plastic from a binder cover folded over the ends of a paperclip
that goes through the frame and is the width of the truck.With the final paint and assembly completed, you should now have a nice, new grain truck ready for your shelf or display. If your interest is primarily in vintage equipment, the principles outlined in this article could also be applied to older grain trucks if you use an appropriate cab. Whichever you try, with a little patience and attention to detail you will have a nice addition to your collection. ![]() ![]()
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October 2003 Page 4