Making Your Own Decals
By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectibles

One thing most custom toy projects have in common is the need for special graphics to add those minute finishing details like model numbers, stripes, grills and lights.  There are several ways to try to do this. You can attempt to modify the original decals, paint the details on by hand, or order a new set of decals from sources commonly found in the back of toy publications.   All of these options have their merits, but unfortunately also have drawbacks.  Modifying the original decals or painting the details on by hand can be extremely difficult when attempting anything too complex.  Ordering custom decals is a good option, but your choices are still somewhat limited, and depending on how extensively you have modified the model, you can not be certain the decals will fit exactly right.   Another option that many people don't consider is making decals themselves.  Using special paper, decals can be created using your home computer and printer.  Custom decal making can be a challenge, but once you have the process mastered, it opens up a whole new realm of customizing opportunities. 

Getting Started

Original decal on Ertl Massey Furgeson 8280

Before you get started, it is important to make sure your expectations are realistic and that decals are in fact the best way to get the results you desire.  In most cases such as stripes and product markings, decals can give you the detail you desire.  Still, I have yet to find a good way to match the quality of the printed-on graphics common on many of the higher quality toys on the market today.  Even if your decals turn out perfect, you can't expect any better quality than what you typically find on the original toy decals.  In most cases you will be able to tell there is a decal there because the decal film, although very thin, is visible.  Also, decals have a difficult time sticking to complex curves. They are best used on surfaces that are flat or have simple curves or bends.  Finally, many details, especially on 1/64 scale models are very small.  Handling very small decals can be difficult and the size of the detail you are trying to create must be taken into consideration.  Simple details that are very small might look better if painted on or if left off altogether.   Fortunately, these instances are only a small percentage of the situations you will run into and for the majority of your projects printed decals will work fine.

Quick Tip: Painting Fine Details There are times when using a decal to add a detail is impractical and unnecessary.  This is often the case when adding something simple and/or very small like lights or door handles.  In these cases you can simply use a fine pointed object like a toothpick or push pin as a small paintbrush to paint the detail on.  If necessary, dab the object onto a clean towel or piece of scrap paper to reduce the droplet size for extra fine details.

This article focuses on printing decals with an inkjet printer, since that is what is most commonly available.   There are two major obstacles to overcome with using an inkjet printer to make decals.  First, inkjet ink is water soluble and will smear if it gets wet.  The other problem with inkjet printers is that they can't print white.  This makes it difficult to print white or light colors on dark backgrounds. The water solubility problem is easily fixed.  A coat of clear spray paint will make the ink water-resistant.  The printing white problem is a bit more of a challenge.  The only way to really print white is to get an ALPS printer or an expensive screen printing machine.  ALPS printers are no longer made, but can be purchased off of Ebay for several hundred dollars.  The good news is that there is a way around this problem for those of us unable or unwilling to spend money on a special printer.  Decal paper can be purchased that is already white.  The bad news is that you sacrifice the transparency of the decal film.  This presents another challenger that will be discussed later. 

Decal “Paper”
To print decals you need special “paper”.  The easiest way to make decals, that I have found, is to print on adhesive backed inkjet paper and then laminate it with self adhesive laminating film.  Both of these can commonly be found at office supply stores.  While this method is relatively easy, the quality may leave something to be desired.  The adhesive and tiny air bubbles between the paper and the laminating film can give it a slightly cloudy appearance, which is especially visible on dark surfaces.  The combination of the paper and the laminating film is also considerably thicker than other alternatives, which makes it more obvious it is a decal, but also makes it more durable.  Also available at office supply stores is clear adhesive inkjet labels.  These are similar to the laminating film, but are treated to accept inkjet ink. This allows you to print directly onto the clear surface, but like the laminating film, the adhesive is slightly visible in some applications. Results with clear labels, as with any clear medium, are also affected by the printer’s inability to print white.  The best results I have achieved are with special “water-slide” inkjet decal paper.  This is available in white or clear from many hobby stores.  Because this paper requires submersion in water to activate the adhesive, it must be sealed with a clear spray paint to make it waterproof.  While this is a necessity when using this paper, it is still a good idea even if you use a dry, adhesive backed paper to preserve your work should the model become wet.  If you have ever worked with water-slide decals in the past, you know how delicate they can be.  However, when applied properly, they can produce great results.  Which option is best for you depends on your skill level, patience and quality requirements.

Creating the Graphics
To make a decal, you need to either find or create the image you want to make a decal of. The easiest way is to find an image like you want on the web. Websites advertising the product you are trying to make a model of are usually your best resource. They will often include graphics of their logos and product badges/markings on their webpages. You can also try websites of companies that sell graphics and decals.  They will often have pictures of their products that are perfect for using on a model.  If that doesn't work, you can look for logos and markings in printed product literature and scan them in. I have also had luck taking digital photos of markings on real machines or vehicles and using them. Regardless of where your graphics come from, you will probably have to clean up the image some before you can use it. For this you will need some image editing software. I use a combination of Adobe Photo Shop and Paint Shop Pro. I won't go into the various image manipulation techniques here, but sometimes a touch of artistic talent can come in handy.

Image Used for Decal Although background in the graphic doesn't look the right color, when printed the yellow around the "Challenger" letters closely matches the surrounding paint.

One very important thing to consider as you are creating your decal image is what colors your decal has in it and what color the background will be. As I mentioned previously, inkjet printer paper comes in white and clear, so you need to choose which one you need accordingly. If you are printing dark letters on a light background, the clear decal paper should work. If the image you are using has white or light colors in it, you will most likely need white decal paper. As I alluded to earlier, there is a trade-off with the white paper.  If there is clear space in your image, like between letters, you either have to cut them out very carefully  or match the background color. The first option can be impossible on very small decals.  I will often print out a color test strip, similar to you find in the paint section at hardware stores , to compare different shades to match to the background color.  This is an iterative process and often takes several tries.  Make sure your are using the same paper and print resolution as the finished project for your color test to get the best results. 

Printing the Graphics
Once I have the decals designed, I paste them into MS Word so I can easily resize them. I usually print them on regular paper and test fit them until I am sure I have the size right. One thing I have run into, especially on 1/64 models, is that Word has a minimum image size.  If your graphics are too small, using your image editing software you can increase the size of the area around your image to get it to fit in Word, and then cut it out to the right size when it is printed.  Make sure you leave enough space between your images to allow room to cut them out.  I also always print at least two full sets of decals, “just in case”.  The quality of your decals will depend on, among other things, the resolution of your printer.  I used a “photo quality” inkjet printer at 2400 DPI (dots per inch) on the “premium photo paper” setting.   You may have to experiment with the resolution, paper and ink saturation settings to get the best results.  Avoid handling the paper any more than necessary prior to printing and keep it in as clean an environment as possible after you print.  Finger prints will show up in your ink and, because the decal paper is plastic, it stores some static electricity and will attract dust, lint, hair and any other airborn contaminants. 

Sealing, Cutting, and Applying the Decals
After you have printed the decals and the ink has dried (usually 30-45 minutes) apply a thin but thorough coat of clear spray paint.  I have used several different types of clear paint and have found that like other paint, you usually get what you pay for as far as quality goes.  Once the coat of spray paint has dried, carefully cut your decals out.  If the paint hardens completely, it will occasionally fracture at the edge as it is cut. This can expose the ink underneath and allow it to wash off when it is submerged in the water creating white spots around the edges.  To minimize this, cut the decals out as soon as the paint is dry to the touch, but not completely hardened.  The amount of time required for the paint to dry varies depending on paint, temperature and humidity.  Also, make sure your scissors are sharp.  When cutting the decals out, try to round off any sharp corners, as they provide a good place for the decal to start peeling off when your model is handled.  Before you dip the decal into water, wet the surface you are going to apply the decal to.  This will help you move the decal more easily to get it into exactly the right position.  Dip the decal into the water until the backing easily slides off.  Use tweezers if the decal is too small to handle with your fingers.  Do not leave it in the water too long, or the decal may not stick.  Apply the decal and reposition as necessary.  After it is in the desired position, dab it with a tissue to absorb any excess water.  In addition to these general guidelines, the decal paper manufacturers usually include instructions, so make sure you follow them to get the best results. 

Finishing Touches
A problem I have occasionally had is with the portions of the edges of the decal being white. This is related to the paint fracture problem I mentioned earlier and is especially noticeable when you are putting decals on a dark background. In this case, I usually very carefully trace around the edges with an ink pen of the appropriate color.  Depending on how much you expect your model to be handled, you may want to seal the decal to protect it.  Hobby shops often carry decal sealant in spray and bottle form. 

As you can see, making your own decals isn’t exactly a simple process, but it can be very rewarding once you have mastered it.  Don't be discouraged if your first few projects don't turn out exactly like you had hoped.  Like anything else, making your own decals requires some practice.  However, if you follow the tips in this article your learning curve won't be quite so steep.

If you would like more information on making your own decals, Bel Decal has a good tutorial on their website for inkjet decals. This site has a more advanced tutorial.

Examples
The following models were made using inkjet decals: