AGCO 1/64 MFWD Conversions
By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectibles

Large MFWD tractors are a popular choice for spring planting or tillage chores. Ertl offers a wide array of 1/64 scale choices in Red and Green, but if you  like other brands, or just want to add a little variety to your collection, your choices are more limited. One alternative choice that is available, is to use an AGCO tractor. These AGCO tractors present a great opportunity to tractor customizers because multiple brands can be made from the same tractor. Ertl has offered a Massey Furgeson 8280 for several years so they are readily available. More recently, Ertl has offered the same tractor in AGCO DT markings and will soon be producing them in Challenger colors. The nice thing about the AGCO large MFWD tractors is that, at least visually, they are about as different as Chevy's and GMC's. They utilize the same cabs and chassis, and the hood lines are very similar. Also like the GM pickups, the biggest difference is in the grill area. The White, AGCO-Allis, AGCO and Challenger use similar grills and the MF is slightly different. Unfortunately, the MF is the one that Ertl chose to cast, so to make a more accurate replica the grill must be modified. In this article, I will walk you through the steps required to convert your AGCO MFWD into a White, AGCO Allis, AGCO DT or Challenger MT600. Some of the same steps can also be used if you realy want to modify the grill of your Ertl AGCO DT or Challenger MT600 tractors.

The first thing to do if you are planning on converting the tractor from one brand to another is remove the decals on the grill and side of the tractor hood. An exacto knife may help here if you are wishing to reuse the decals. If not, persistent scratching with your finger nails can do the trick. Any remaining glue residue should be removed with nail polish remover as it is likely to collect metal shavings and dust, both of which have a tendency to show up in your paint later. Also take care not to damage the cab light decals. These can be easily removed by sliding the exacto knife under them. Place any decals you are wishing to reuse on a small piece of wax paper and put them in a safe place so that they can be reapplied to your finished model.

Next, remove the plastic cab top. The best way I have found to do this is to slide a thin screwdriver underneath the top and gently pry it up. Be careful not to break off the tabs that hold it on, or to bend the top more than necessary. Put the cab top aside for painting and reinstallation later.  Since I usually add removable duals to my models, I also like to go ahead an remove the rear axle and tires at this point to keep them from getting damaged and to make it easier to paint later.
Quick Tip: Removable Duals
Removable Duals are a simple and common modification to make. In order to do this, you must first remove the axle and tires from the tractor. This is often the hardest part of the process on tractors where the tires are riveted on, as is the case with most modern tractor models. The best way to do it is to take a thin saw and saw through the axle either between the duals or between the inner wheel and tractor. If you don't have a thin saw, or there is not room for one, you can also use a rotary tool or drill and grind off the outer part of the rivet. If you use this method and plan on reusing the tires and wheels, you must take extreme caution not to get into the plastic and damage the wheel.

Once you get the wheels off, take a section of steel rod that fits snugly in the wheels or is slightly larger (usually 1/8") and cut it to the desired length. Drill out the tractor axle hole if necessary to allow the axle to turn freely. If the axle is slightly larger than the wheel hole, use a drill bit to make the wheel hole larger. The plastic is soft, so I usually turn the bit by hand to keep from making the hole too big. Center your new axle in your tractor and slide the wheels on. If you have some that fit tighter than others, use those on the inside.  You are less likely to want to remove them and they will better keep the axle in place. If the wheels are a little too loose for your liking, you can paint the axle to help them stay on better.
The tractor is now prepped and ready for modification. Because the MF has three recessed grill sections and the other AGCO tractors have a single wrap-around grill, grinding is required to remove the material between the three grill sections. For this I use a rotary tool with a disc shaped cutting tool. If you are not experienced using a rotary tool, you may want to remove the front wheels or wrap them in masking tape to protect them. I begin by cutting along the top and bottom edges of the grill to a depth approximately the same as the grill sections. From there, I remove the material between the two cuts and smooth the corner.
 
Another difference in the grills between the MF and other AGCO's is the front grill housing of the MF is a separate piece, whereas the rest of the AGCO line uses an grill housing built into the hood. To make this modification to your model, you will have to fill the area on the top edge of the grill housing with some body filler. You may also want to fill in any rough areas on the grill so they can be sanded smooth. This is also a good opportunity to fill the center hood seam and rivet holes on the sides of the tractor. After you have allowed the body filler to harden, sand the edges and corners smooth.

Once all the features are sanded and shaped the way you want them, you are ready for some paint. However, before you begin painting, make sure the model is clean from dust and metal shavings. There are several ways you can paint the tractor, depending on your skill level and equipment available, but I will briefly explain how I do it. Since the tractors are difficult to mask off for painting with spray cans and I do not have an airbrush, I prefer to paint my 1/64 tractors with a small, soft bristled brush. The first thing I do is touch up the black areas around the cab. The paint transition from the black cab to the colored fenders is often fuzzy and uneven as it come from Ertl. I prefer to extend the black slightly into the fender area so when I come back with the color later I can make a nice clean edge. You also may need to paint the engine side covers, depending on what model you are going to and from, or touch up any areas that got scratched or chipped. After the black has dried, I start with the color. make sure to get good coverage on the hood and fenders but be careful not to get too much or you will get runs and hide features. You also may need to paint the cab top. Since this is a loose piece, I suggest spray painting it if you have a can of the same paint you are using with the brush. The cab top tabs will fit snugly on the the right size bolt head and allow you to easily handle it while you are painting.

Allow a couple of days for the paint to dry thoroughly before you handle any of the pieces. Once the paint is dry, you are ready to assemble and detail your tractor. The cab top will snap back on, but if you painted it, be careful not to chip or scratch it. You can also reinstall your wheels and tires if you removed them earlier. If you are reusing your decals, you can reapply them. If you have trouble getting them to stick, spread some glue on the sticky side with a toothpick. If you are not reusing the decals, or need some different ones, there are several places out there that you can order some from, or you can check here next month when I explain how you can make your own.  Good Luck!


  

TTT April 2003 Page 4

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