John Deere 9520 Scraper Tractor
By Dave Tallon, Tallon Custom Collectables

I think one characteristic that is inherent to all toy customizers is having a backlog of projects.  It never seems to fail that I can think of more projects to try than I actually have time for, and inevitably get behind.  As a result of this tendency, the project that I am writing about this month as I return from the “big show” is something I picked up in Dyersville, but at the Summer Toy Show in June and not the National. 
Ertl pleased many collectors when they first displayed the John Deere Scraper set at the National last year.  The first time I saw the sets available for purchase was at the St. Louis show in January, but the initial spike in demand kept prices high and supplies limited, so I held off on buying one.  Lucky for me that I did.  Not only did I find a better deal on one at the Dyersville summer show, but by then Ertl had replaced the 9520 originally offered in the set with their new 9520 with clear cab glass.  I did not even realize this until after I had purchased mine, but luckily I had grabbed a clear window version when I made my purchase. 

While the clear cab glass is a much appreciated update to the 9000 series replicas, there is still room for some detailing.  Pulling scraper pans day in and day out is a more challenging application than typical ag use.  With the alternating high drawbar load and high speed work cycle, and year-round use, tractors dedicated to pulling scrapers tend to be a little more “heavy duty” than the standard Ag tractor.  Special tires, bead-lock rims and extra ballast are just a few of the features that are common to these types of tractors.  The tractor as packaged in the Ertl scraper set is no different than the agricultural version sold separately or in other sets.  This provides an excellent opportunity for a little customizing.  Even if you prefer to use your tractor to turn the dirt over with an implement rather than move it from point A to point B, many of the following detailing tips are applicable to an ag tractor as well. 

The first thing I set about doing is putting some more aggressive tires on the tractor.  I found a good donor in the Ertl log skidder.  Removing the tires and axles from both tractors can be accomplished in a similar way, by firmly holding one tire and twisting and pulling on the other until one side comes loose.  Sometimes, getting these tires off is the hardest part of the customizing process.  Once you get the skidder tires loose, you will have to do some modification to get the axle width correct.  This modification will allow the tires to tuck in closer to the body of the tractor.  The first thing that needs to be modified are the axle housings on the tractor.  Cut or grind off the round portions on the ends of the axles down to where the cross-section becomes square.  That alone is not enough, however.  You will also need to remove between 1/16” and 1/8” of material from the back side of the wheels.  You can likely re-use the axles from the skidder by just trimming them down to the correct length.  Although the tires should now be ready to install on your tractor, hold off until all of the modifications are complete.

Due to the high drawbar load on tractors pulling scrapers, extra weight often needs to be added to the front to achieve the proper balance.  The Ertl 9000 series lack weights on the front end.  The 8000 series, however, does not.  The weights from the front of an 8000 series tractor can be easily and cleanly cut off.  They can be re-used on a 9000 series tractor, like our scraper tractor, by first gluing the two halves of the casting together, and then glueing them to the front “bumper”.  You may have to grind the mounting surface on the weights to match the contour of the bumper to get a good mating surface. 

I added a few additional features to give the tractor a little more detail.  The first is some additional lights for working into the night.  The lights are made from black “seed” beads used for bracelets and charms and available in most craft stores.  I glued two beads to each side of the cab and two to each rear fender.  Also at the top of the cab, added a set of mirrors, made by wrapping a paperclip around the front edge.  Bend the paperclip to match the contour of the front window of the cab and wrap it about 1/8” down each side.  Then extend the clip out about ¼” from each side, before bending it downward for about 3/16”.   Glue a short strip of plastic, about 1/8” x 3/16” to the end of each side.  I added a beacon to the top of the mirror bar on the left-hand side, made from an orange seed bead.  On the left side of the cab, between the mirror bar and the work lights, I added an antenna made from a broom bristle.  Finally, I added a set of flasher bars to the top of the front fenders.  They are made from 1/16” square brass tubing, with a bend in it to replicate a folded up position.  I added a bead to the end of each one for a flasher light.   Hold off attaching your mirrors or flasher bars to the tractor until painting is complete. 

Painting on this project is pretty minimal.  Paint the flasher bars, mirrors and mirror support bar black prior to attaching them to the tractor.  Paint the reflective face of the mirrors silver.  Add a dab of white, orange or red paint to the face of each light, as appropriate.  You will likely want to paint the wheels John Deere ag yellow, since the come in construction yellow which has more of an orange tint.  I could not find a way to remove the tire from the wheel without damaging one or both parts, so painting the wheel with a brush is likely your best option.  Touch up any scratches or scuffs to the green surfaces with some John Deere green paint. 

Finally assembly is fairly straightforward.  Glue on your flasher bars and mirrors, taking care not to get any glue on the glass.  Flasher bars can be attached on top of the fender on the left side, and just below the air cleaner on the right side.  After the glue has dried, clean up any glue fume residue with some Vaseline.  Add the tires to the tractor.  If they do not fit tight enough on the axle by themselves, slide the axle through the tractor and add a dab of glue to the bare end before installing the tire.  To ensure the axles turn freely, take care not to get any of the glue on the portion of the axle or wheel that contacts the tractor body.

If you feel your scrapers are now not detailed enough to match your tractor, Moore’s makes a kit to dress those up too.  Regardless of if you just detail the tractor or the whole set, you should now have a tractor that is ready to move some serious dirt on your display, or at least some dust off of your shelves. 



































Tallon Tips Article Index
03/2003 - Removing Tampos
04/2003 - Detailing AGCO MFWD Tractors
05/2003 - Making Your Own Decals
06/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 1
07/2003 - Making 1/64 Pullers Pt. 2
08/2003 - Making a McCormick MTX
09/2003 - Photographing Scale Models
10/2003 - Making Custom Grain Trucks
11/2003 - Detailing a White 4-270
12/2003 - Making a John Deere 6030

01/2004 - Getting Started in Customizing
02/2004 - Dave Tallon's Custom Collection
03/2004 - Building a C&D Steiger Wildcat Kit
04/2004 - Building a Chevy Crew Cab Dually
05/2004 - Tire Customizing Basics
06/2004 - Making 4WD Pulling Trucks
07/2004 - Making Articulated 4WD Tractors
08/2004 - Making 1/64 Service Trucks
09/2004 - Detailing a Challenger MT765
10/2004 - Online Auction Selling Tips
12/2004 - Favorite Model of 2004

01/2005 - Scale Dimensions
02/2005 - CaseIH STX Accusteer
03/2005 - Vintage Dodge Flatbed Dually
04/2005 - Matching Tractors and Implements
06/2005 - Detailing a Gooseneck Flatbed
07/2005 - Customizing Ideas
08/2005 - 1/16 Massey Harris 44 Puller
09/2005 - 1/64 KW T600 Grain Semi
10/2005 - 1/64 Chevrolet C65 Grain Truck